The GameMaster's Blackjack School
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Index Lesson 7:
Money Management - Part 1
A Sermon
I do a little bit of preaching here on
the pages of The GameMaster Online every so often, primarily
because I hate to think of people handing their money to casinos.
I'm not saying I don't lose, because I have my bad days as well,
but what I am saying is that the casinos have to fight me for
every penny they get. You need to develop that kind of attitude
and just the fact that you're reading this now shows me that
you're willing to learn, so you've got a good start. Casinos
make money because the players allow them to make money. Even
if you've learned everything I've taught you up to this point,
you're still not ready to play, so forget about it and start
building your bankroll towards the day when you WILL be ready.
You cannot expect to win at Blackjack if you're betting the
rent money. You must have a sum of money set aside which is
"extra" -- money which, should you lose it, will not affect
your lifestyle in any way. By doing it that way, you'll bet
what needs to be bet and play the hands as they need to be played.
That's what gets the $$$ at the casino. 'Nuff said.
What is Money Management?
As it applies to playing Blackjack as
a card counter, money management is a method of betting which
will minimize your losses and maximize your gains. Playing Blackjack
carries with it the risk of loss. The advantage a counter has
over the casino is small and the fluctuations in a player's
bankroll can occur with frightening speed. Proper management
of your funds is required in all aspects of the game to give
you the best possible chance of reaching that elusive "long
term". Some of you will begin your careers as counters with
a big win and you'll never look back. Most of you, however,
will begin with a loss and it will take more hours of play before
you start showing a profit; that's just the reality of the situation.
What I'm going to teach you in the next four or five lessons
is how to survive at the game until your long term edge begins
to have its effect and then show you how to keep the profits
you make.
The True Count
All of our betting decisions will be made
on the basis of what is known as the "true count" or more accurately,
the "count per remaining deck". While most of this applies to
those who will be playing at multi-deck games, you single-deckers
pay attention, too -- you'll need to know this as well. If six
small cards come out on the first hand in a game, we will have
a running count of 6. For the single-deck players, you will
have a true count of just over 6, since there's just a bit less
than one deck remaining to be played. If you're at a six-deck
game, the count per remaining deck (the true count) is just
a bit over 1, since there is just a bit less than 6 decks remaining
to be played. See how that works? We are "standardizing" the
count by dividing the running count by the total number of remaining
decks. Let's try another example to see if you understand the
concept. At a single-deck game on the first hand, a running
count of 2 (remember, I don't use "+" to indicate a positive
number) converts to a true count of 2, when rounded off. In
a six-deck game and a running count of 12 after the first hand,
the true count converts to 2. Both true counts are 2 , but it
takes a much higher running count to achieve that in the six-deck
game.
TO DETERMINE THE TRUE COUNT, DIVIDE THE "RUNNING" COUNT
BY THE NUMBER OF DECKS REMAINING TO BE PLAYED.
Don't let that statement confuse you.
What this means is the number of decks left, whether they'll
actually be played or not. In a six-deck game, a deck or more
may be cut off by the dealer, but that means nothing when computing
true count. The basis for the calculation is the total number
of decks in the game which is adjusted by the number of decks
which have been played. An example: in a six-deck game where
two decks have been played and put into the discard rack off
to the side, a running count of 8 translates into a true count
of 2 because there are four decks left in the shoe. The dealer
may shuffle before all four of those remaining decks have been
played, but for true count conversion that doesn't matter.
Take this this little test with me to
see if you understand the principle.
|
Deck Remaining |
Running Count |
True Count |
| 1. |
4 |
8 |
2 |
| 2. |
2 |
10 |
5 |
| 3. |
5 |
5 |
1 |
| 4. |
3 |
12 |
4 |
Estimating the Number of Remaining Decks
The casinos are very nice about providing
us a device to determine just how many decks there are remaining
to be played in the shoe. No, that device is not the shoe, but
the discard tray which can be found on virtually every table
where a multi-deck game is played. As cards are used, the dealer
places them very neatly in the discard tray where everyone can
see them so counters use that, and a bit of subtraction, to
determine how many decks are left to be played. At a six-deck
game, if there are two decks in the discard tray, there has
to be four decks left in the shoe, assuming no cards are on
the table. What we strive for is to be accurate to within a
half-deck for our estimation. Just exactly how to train for
that is one of your homework assignments, so don't worry about
it for the moment. What's more important at this point are the
mechanics used to calculate the true count by that method. Let's
walk through a simple explanation together.
We're at a six-deck game, the running
count is M-6 and three decks are in the discard tray. That means
three decks remain, so we divide the running count by 3 and
our true count is M-2. Yes, this works for negative decks as
well -- exactly the same way. Got it? Try this test to see if
you do.
Assume we're at a six-deck game. I'm only
going to give you the decks in the discard tray, so do the calculation
to determine the number of decks left in the shoe.
|
Decks Played |
Running Count |
True Count |
| 1. |
2 |
4 |
? |
| 2. |
4 |
8 |
? |
| 3. |
5 |
5 |
? |
| 4. |
1 |
5 |
? |
| 5. |
2.5 |
7 |
? |
| 6. |
2 |
0 |
? |
| 7. |
3.5 |
M-5 |
? |
| 8. |
1.5 |
9 |
? |
| 9. |
3 |
M-3 |
? |
| 10. |
4.5 |
3 |
? |
The Answers
1. One (2 decks played, 4 decks remaining, 4 divided by
4 = 1)
2. Four (4 decks played, 2 decks remaining, 8 divided by
2 = 4)
3. Five (You're on your own now, kid.)
4. One
5. Two
6. Zero
7. M-two
8. Two
9. M-one
10. A bit over one (but we always round "down" in order
to be conservative, so we'd call this "one".) I
can see some eyes glazing over out there, so we better stop for
this week. But don't be discouraged; you can learn this -- it
just takes some practice. Speaking of practice, pick up your homework
assignment and practice "calibrating" your eyes.
Homework
Estimating the number of decks remaining in
a discard tray is really just an exercise in repetitive staring.
If you look at a deck of 52 cards long enough, you can tell if
10 or 12 cards have been added to it. So, that's how we calibrate
our eyes. Begin with a single deck and look it for a while. Then,
put another deck on top of it and look at that for a while. Now,
put a third deck on top and look at that for a while. Finally,
pull one deck off -- don't count the cards -- just estimate how
much a deck is, pull it off and then count it to see how close
you were. Now, put that deck back on top and pull off two decks,
count them for accuracy and put them back on top. Now, build your
stack up to five decks and pull off a deck and a half, then three
decks and so on. You'll be amazed at how quickly you've begun
to recognize how many decks are in a pile. A nice variation to
this exercise is to have a friend set up piles of various sizes
(within a half-deck accuracy) while you're out of the room and
then you come in and recite the size of each pile.
Keep at it, because you've got to be accurate
at this. Your money will be riding on it.
See you here next week when we discuss
how to bet by using the true count.
As always, if you have any questions,
e-mail me at
aceten1@mindspring.com
and Ill get back to you ASAP.
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